Wednesday, February 18, 2009
33 hours to home
To Lauren - a jewel out of Africa, mysterious, sensuous and most desireable. Happy Valentine's Day from Mark
Kinda creepy??
My 7 hour dinner
More strange facts about Angola
Despite the poverty, luxury cars are everywhere. For whatever reason (I noticed this and my driver confirmed; I hadn’t even brought it up to him), people own cars over houses. They scrounge for 40,000USD to buy a really nice car, but cannot afford a roof over their heads. Really. I don’t get it. Not only is it impractical to start with, but the traffic and driving is so ferocious in Luanda that it was nearly impossible for every car not to be dented up or have cracks in the windshield or both. Boggles my mind.
People interrupt each other all the time. You could be having a one-on-one conversation and someone will come up to you and completely interrupt. Apparently, this is absolutely OK. People here are lazy as hell but they can’t wait to speak with you, go figure. I noticed this first with my driver (good thing I had him around). He would go into a store with me and interrupt people constantly so that we could get some prices. I sure didn’t complain, but it was very strange, I had to hold back from feeling bad for the person who was interrupted. But clearly they didn’t care anyways.
Another thing people do is answer phone calls in the middle of a conversation. My driver would do it alllllllllll the timmmmmmme. The one I remember clearest is being in a pharmacy and we were in line speaking to a pharmacist about the price of certain drugs and my driver of course was translating for me, and his phone would ring and he would pick it up, talk for a minute, hang up and then keep going. Meanwhile, myself and the pharmacist would just sit there in silence because we couldn’t understand each other. When I took my driver out to dinner he answered every call that came in then, too. I noticed other people doing this as well. Very bizarre, but you need to prevent yourself from getting mad about it, cause this is culture. When you are in Rome, you do as the Romans do.
My driver didn’t know what McDonalds was. There isn’t much I can say about this, it’s pretty shocking. I didn’t know anyone in the world wouldn’t know what McDonalds was.
Funny quote of the day was – “You don’t work like this in your country, do you? It kill you” Yes, Egidio, Americans are work-aholics. I am no exception.
There are no parking garages in Luanda. It’s a very large, populated city with many, many cars (as I mentioned before) but there are no garages. So naturally, there is a problem with parking. The way they deal with it is this: They double park. Then, they either put their phone number on the car they are blocking, or they tell the guard or person that just happens to be sitting outside doing nothing and staring at you where they will be going if someone wants to move their car.
Random people try to help you park. If you pull over and they can tell you are parking your car, they will do anything and everything to help you get in the spot, but then they ask for money right away. It’s really annoying.
Armed guards are everywhere. I’m not sure if they make me feel more or less safe.
My boss needed to wire me some $ because none of the ATMs would take my debit card. So I needed to go to a Western Union to pick up the cash; there were many of them throughout the city, the issue was, though; that most of them were down. We went to 3 different Western Unions whose banking system was down for the whole day. I was getting hopeless; this was Friday and they weren’t even open on Saturdays. We finally tried one last one at the end of the day and it was working, finally. We were one of the last customers to be served that day, and I thought that maybe we wouldn’t even make it because of the terrible traffic we had to go through to get there.
So backwards
Lessons in safety
Hospitals and health issues
When I was in Luanda, one of the things I needed to do was price the cost of sleeping in a hospital room. So, without even thinking it over, my driver took me to a public hospital. I went in through some large doors and walked down through the corridors before I approached a “guard” sitting in a chair. I tried speaking with her. Twice. She didn’t look at me. She was cross-eyed and had flies buzzing around her. The moment struck me as a scene out of a horror movie. I quickly walked by her into the corridors, trying to find someone I could speak with. It was a beautiful hospital, although I’m sure the medical care wasn’t quite up to par with the care of the facility. I finally found a couple doctors who were looking at me strangely, so I decided to speak with them. One spoke some English, the other didn’t. So I spoke, and the one that spoke English translated. Eventually after much discussion, I got the answer I needed and headed back the other way – the cost of a hospital room and all service was free. This time the creepy guard stopped me as I was heading out the door. She made it clear I couldn’t go out that way. So I began heading in the other direction. But wait, my driver was right outside. If I don’t go that way, I’m going to have to walk around the whole damn hospital. So I turn back around, and fruitlessly try explaining to the guard… but my “insert steering wheel motions” was right outside, pointing to the doors that I came in. Uh uh. You can’t go. So then I pleaded. And I got somewhere. She poked here head out the doors and motioned for me to go, quickly. Soo I snuck out of the hospital, and ran down to where my driver was. Apparently those doors were not to be used. Who knew.
Speaking of hospitals, I didn’t escape Africa without some minor issues. I woke up a few days after arrival with a swollen eye, which I came to realize was an eye infection. I’m not sure what caused it; whether it was simply the air filled with pathogens or the water from the hotel. I began pouring bottled water over each of my eyes every night before I went to bed. In a couple days my infection was no more. Inevitably, I also had some stomach issues. I tempted fate one night by eating from the buffet but unfortunately it didn’t go very well. My skin, the whole time in Africa, suffered. I have eczema as it is, and it’s bad enough; but I was getting hives everywhere, including on my face. It took my face alone a week to recover (once I got home) from the pollution buildup that was causing me to break out. Also, the most seasoned surveyor on my team who was also in Africa was just medi-evaced to Paris – they never found out what the cause was, but he woke up one day paralyzed from the waist down, in the middle of a country with very limited health care. Very scary. He is now back in the office and is just about fully recovered, thank goodness. But it’s just one reminder of the issues we face as surveyors. Just goes to show how important it is to be strong and fearless, as much as possible – because when a situation arises, the worst thing to do would be to panic.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Translation problems and disappointing cuisine.
I was in a grocery store and noticed a shirt on the rack that said "He's shit" pointing to the right. I wonder who will eventually end up wearing that shirt, and hope it's not a child! I also witnessed a worker belting out the american songs playing in the store. He tried so hard to sound like they did over the radio, but he clearly didn't know english. Neither did he mind that I was standing right next to him. It kept me amused for quite a while. Then I was in a restaurant and noticed skunk and lobster on the menu. No worries, it was a translation mistake; should have been shrimp and lobster. Pretty funny regardless.
If only the food in Luanda was good, but it's not. It's atrocious. Everything tastes old and you wonder what has been refrigerated and what hasn't. I went out for drinks with my driver's supervisor (whom we have used before for a driver) and had some cuca beer - which is the national beer of Angola. They are very proud of it. It tastes like budweiser. They served a small appetizer plate of some sort of meat. So I try one. GROSS!! It was chewy like I was munching on cartiledge and bones. I asked Carlos what it was and he said it was from a chicken and was pointing to the stomach area. I didn't want to know anything more about what it was. I swallowed a few of them to be polite, but ate as few as possible. The hotel food which cost me $110 for dinner wasn't much better. I had the buffet and tried a little bit of everything. I left everything on my plate except for the plain sauteed spaghetti with a few capers thrown in. Very sad. I thought I'd give it one more try and went out to dinner another night at one of the nicest restaurants in the area with my driver and ordered garlic shrimp. The veggetables that came with it were frozen ones from a bag that were heated up, probably in the microwave. And the shrimp smelled. I couldn't eat much of my dinner. I guess I assumed correct when I said I would lose weight in Africa!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Most expensive place in the world...
I have realized that the most challenging thing is remembering not to use the tap water for brushing my teeth, and dealing with smells. The fish department at the grocery store does not smell appetizing and flies land all over the "fresh" vegetables. One of the grocery stores I was in doesn't refrigerate eggs, and yogurt. It is so disgusting. People smell. And outside smells too. They don't have proper sewage, so disgusting fluid is all around - though the sewage smell is not as bad as it sounds. Although, I know there are some people (notably Kym) who wouldn't be able to step foot outside the hotel, haha.
I saw a disfigured man today. He walked on all fours with his butt in the air. It was very sad, very disturbing. I also saw a man with disfigured hands - they are unusable. I can't imagine living like this. I wonder if this is a side-effect from the civil war. One of my co-workers told me that landmines still exist around the outskirts of the city, and to expect to see disfigured people. I won't be going there.
On a lighter note... my driver speaks little english. He told me he has three sons. Then he said, my three sons are girls. I refrained from smiling.
Day 1
Despite the poverty being so bad, I haven't been asked for money once. If I want to buy bananas from the street vendor, yes. But I never felt threatened. And I'm not stared at as much as I thought I would be. People walk slowly, they hang around everywhere and just stand there. It's very strange in comparison to the western culture.
A couple other cultural differences I noticed: Personal space. If I am at the grocery store, people reach all around me and have no problem with standing right next to me to look at something. Also, I have noticed while talking to people they stand very close. I have caught myself on a couple occasions backing away, which is known to be an insult.
Another cultural difference: I noticed my driver rarely looks me in the eyes. So I did some research on it. Apparently it's taboo for a woman to look a man directly in the eyes. I have tried not to do this, but it's really hard not to do!
First impressions
I went outside and there were about 50 people crowding the door, waiting for someone to come out. It was chaos. Luckily before stepping outside I saw a guy with a sign that read "Maurin" and figured it was for me. So I waved, he took a bag, and everything was OK.
The poverty was shocking. People were living in scores in torn-down buildings, if not then makeshift houses with dirt floors. I have never seen so many people just hanging out in the streets with no where to go, nothing to do. It's dirty everywhere. My favorite part was seeing the women walking around with the baskets on their heads. I've always seen it in books, but it was so cool to see in person!
So then when I got to the hotel I electrocuted myself for the first time ever. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.
On arrival to Angola
Duh.
Great start to my trip. This is my co-worker from Brussels, he just started as a surveyor in our Brussels office but spent TWO WEEKS training in Boston. Though I give him major props for recognizing ME since I looked completely disheveled after spending the morning trying not to be sick after waking up drunk, packing my bags (you should have seen what my bag looked like when I opened it at the hotel), and getting dressed last minute. Screw makeup, and my hair was a mess. Anyways, Matteo and I were on the same flight. Who would have thought. After stopping in Luanda, it continued an hour later to Kinshasa. The flight was not even a quarter full so I sat near Matteo, but still had a full 4 seats to myself.
It was hard to leave Matteo. I was scared, nervous and excited to be here in Africa. i had no idea what to expect.